In Houston, Texas, at a pub called Timberwolf, I had a surprise encounter with Pierre Celis, from the famous brewery of that name in Austin. He gave me a sampling of a new beer along the lines of a Belgian abbey "Double." Using the Flemish spelling, he calls it Celis Dubbel. It has a tawny to dark brown color; a smooth, malty palate; and a distinctly spicy (Chimay-like), herbal, rooty, finish. Alcohol content is around 4.4 by weight, 5.0 by volume.

White beer revivalist, Pieter Celis (second from right), gets an early taste of brewing.

While I was in Houston, I would have liked to revisit some local favorites such as The Village Brewpub, but felt it a greater priority to break new ground. I headed out to Galveston to visit Steve Roberts, once a star of The Foam Rangers homebrewing club. He and two partners now have The Galveston Brewery, in a former cotton warehouse on the edge of The Strand, the rehabbed Old Town. The Galveston Brewery uses beautifully-adapted dairying vessels to make very clean, flavor-packed, beers. I greatly enjoyed the hoppy, Saaz-accented, Light Bale (as in cotton) Ale; the yet more hoppy, Styrian-tinged, Ruby's Red; and a multi-spiced, early, Christmas Ale that reminded me of Anchor's '89 vintage. The brewery/pub is at 2521 Mechanic St., Galveston (tel. 409-763-3484). It is really a beer place, but it does offer deli sandwiches.

Nearby in Galveston is The Strand Brewery, at 23rd St. and Harborside Drive (tel. 409-763-4500). This is also a brewpub, but clearly aimed at a less beer-aware audience. The most assertive of its beers is the toffeeish Brown Pelican. The Strand has a full menu.

Published Online: OCT 1, 1997
Published in Print: OCT 1, 1997
In: Beer Hunter Online

Beer Review